St. Bernardus Abt 12 (WV Forbidden Fruit Series-Review #1)

I picked up a 75cl bottle of "St. Bernardus Abt12" last week while in Philly. It's not the first time I have had this beer, nor will it be my last. St "B" beers are often considered the next best thing to getting the real Trappist beers of the brewery just down the road called "Westvleteren" of the Abbey of St. Sixtus. "Westvelteren 12" has been ranked the best beer in the world by many "beery" websites. It is nearly impossible to find unless you actually visit the area near the brewery, due to it being of limited production.

St. Bernardus is not a trappist beer; it's brewed by a totally secular brewery called Van Steenberge in Watou, Belgium. This brewery used to be the contract brewer for the monks at St. Sixtus prior to the abbey building their own brew house in the 1950's. It is believed by many that the recipe and process is similar to the current Trappist branded brew. I have had both and there are significant differences.

Abt 12 would fit into the BJCP style guideline as a Belgian Strong Dark ale. It weighs in at 10% ABV, which clearly makes it WV Forbidden Fruit, and a beer that deserves some contemplation and respect.

The beer is highly carbonated and is best purchased in the 75cl corked bottle. Make sure your "beer monger" stores such beer away from the intense heat and also natural or fluorescent light. These types of beer will sell for anywhere between 9 to 14 bucks a bottle. So buy with care!

It pours with a bubbly tan head, and a rich dark garnet color. It should pour fairly clear unless the bottle has been agitated. Behold the color by holding the glass (goblet is proper glassware) up to the light. Take some time to enjoy the aromas of plum, raisins and slight alcohol in the nose. If the beer is served too cold (below 50F), these aromas and flavors will be subdued. Ideally I would serve at 60F.

The first thing you will taste is the tickle from the high carbonation, then the interplay between the sweetness from the caramelized grains and candy sugar in the recipe. These flavors can taste of plum, pear and sometimes apple. Your palate should now be aware that this beer contains a healthy share of alcohol. A finely crafted beer like this will present alcohol via warmth with a touch of peppery phenols. Hops are there, but mainly to balance with the sweetness. St. Bernardus pulls this off fairly well. Complex flavors come through, but some of the rounder port wine flavors of it's trappist neighbor are not present and never has been in my memory.

Abt 12 is a fine example of a well crafted Belgian Strong Dark Ale. Just don't kid yourself into thinking you are drinking a Westy 12 or even a Rochefort 10.

These types of beers pair well with stronger flavored meats and stews and especially well with meat dishes that are glazed in fruit, such as lamb or venison.

Salut!